Jean Paul Gaultier turned to last year’s gory ballet drama Black Swan for the plumage and pointe shoes that adorned his recent couture showing. Vogue says:
The jacket of his opening number—cut like a trench over a suave pantsuit—was given an explosion of tutu ruffles to create a bustled peplum, and romantic ballet-length skirts in sturdy tweeds had the unexpected embellishment of feathers at the hem that evoked the headdresses of ballet’s traditional swans. Gaultier used feathers with great imagination throughout the collections—tufts of multicolored marabou simulating camouflage prints or an Icelandic sweater; a feathered cockerel embellishing the sleeve of a black evening coat; and the bands of iridescent pheasant plumes streaking a full tulle skirt—with a bodice elaborately embroidered to simulate those feathers.
The Fashion Bomb says:
Fantastic feathers were the foundation of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2011 couture show, with plumes lining hems, bustling off shoulders, peeking out under A-lines, and flying high on headdresses … Liquid jersey dresses worn over opaque tights fit snuggly under embroidered coats with fluffy trim. Silk column gowns in brooding black were electrified with high head pieces speckled with ebony quills.
T magazine says:
Jean-Paul Gaultier did not depart from his usual antics this season, even for the haute couture: a slew of male character models on the runway (in coq feathered or maribou camouflage anoraks), a bride known in Paris as an “erotic singer,” and loads of attitude. Much of that attitude was clothed in silk jersey, and here is where his hand with draping and, indeed, couture, really shined.